Application
Sewing is the only way to attach a patch that will still be there in ten years. It takes about fifteen minutes by hand, needs no special tools, and works on fabrics an iron would ruin. The whole trick is choosing the right stitch for the patch edge and keeping the stitches small.
Short answer. Pin the patch in place, thread a needle with polyester thread that matches the patch border, and work a small whipstitch or running stitch about 2 mm in from the edge, all the way round. Keep stitches about 3 mm apart, go through the garment only (not the lining), and knot off on the inside. By machine, use a denim needle and a straight or narrow zigzag stitch along the same line.
What you need
- The patch, and the garment washed and dried at least once so it has already shrunk
- Polyester thread in the colour of the patch border (it hides the stitches); clear nylon thread if you cannot match it
- A sharp hand needle, size 7–9, and a thimble for thick patches or denim
- Pins, fabric clips or a dab of washable glue stick to hold the patch while you sew
- Scissors, and a seam ripper in case you need to redo a section
Which stitch to use
Patches have three common edges, and each one sews differently. Look at yours before you start.
| Patch edge | Best stitch | Where the needle goes |
|---|---|---|
| Merrowed (thick rolled border, most round and square patches) | Whipstitch over the border, or a running stitch just inside it | Just inside the inner edge of the border, so the stitch disappears into it |
| Hot-cut or laser-cut (flat edge, die-cut shapes) | Running stitch or backstitch | About 2 mm in from the edge, through the embroidery |
| Leather or PVC | Running stitch through pre-made holes, or a leather needle | Along any stitch groove; PVC and leather do not heal, so every hole shows |
A running stitch is the simplest: in and out along a line. A whipstitch loops over the edge and grips a merrowed border tightly. A backstitch is the strongest by hand and worth using on bags and workwear.
How to sew on a patch by hand
- Position it. Put the garment on or lay it flat, place the patch, and check it is level against a seam rather than by eye. Mark the corners lightly.
- Hold it still. Pin through the patch and garment, or use clips. On a sleeve, slide a rolled towel inside so you do not catch the back of the sleeve.
- Thread and knot. Use a single strand about an arm’s length long, knotted at the end. Doubled thread is stronger but bulkier and tangles.
- Start from inside. Bring the needle up from the inside of the garment, just inside the patch border, so the knot is hidden.
- Work round the edge. Stitch every 3 mm or so, pulling each stitch snug but not tight enough to pucker the fabric. Go through the garment layer only — not a lining.
- Turn corners carefully. On a square patch, put one extra stitch right at each corner. Corners are where lifting starts.
- Finish inside. Take two or three small stitches on the spot on the inside, knot, and trim.
How to sew on a patch with a sewing machine
A machine is faster and just as strong, as long as the patch sits somewhere the machine can reach. Fit a denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16), use polyester thread top and bottom, and set a straight stitch of about 2.5 mm or a narrow zigzag.
- Pin or glue-stick the patch so it cannot shift under the presser foot.
- Start partway along one side, not at a corner, and backstitch three or four stitches to lock it.
- Sew slowly about 2 mm inside the edge, or along the inner edge of a merrowed border. At each corner stop with the needle down, lift the foot, and pivot.
- Overlap the start by 1 cm, backstitch again, and trim the threads on the inside.
Sleeves, trouser legs and the fronts of caps are hard to get under a domestic machine. Hand sewing is usually quicker than fighting the fabric there.
Where you are sewing it changes the method
How to sew a patch on a jacket
Most jackets have a lining. Either sew through the outer shell only, keeping your free hand inside to feel for the lining, or unpick a short section of the lining seam at the hem, sew the patch, and close the lining again. On leather jackets use a leather needle and fewer, larger stitches, because every hole is permanent.
How to sew a patch on jeans
Denim is thick and the legs are narrow. Turn the leg inside out, slide a sleeve board or a rolled magazine inside, and use a thimble. A denim needle and polyester thread make a real difference here.
Bags, caps and hats
For backpacks see putting a patch on a backpack; for caps, the buckram behind the front panel makes hand sewing slow, so an applied patch is often best fitted by the maker. If you want a patch you can swap, use a Velcro backing and sew the loop panel on instead.
What goes wrong
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric puckers around the patch | Stitches pulled too tight, or fabric stretched while sewing | Unpick, re-pin with the garment flat and relaxed, and sew with a lighter pull |
| Stitches show on the front | Thread colour does not match, or stitches too far from the edge | Match the border colour and stitch into the border itself |
| Edges lift after washing | Stitches too far apart, especially at corners | Add stitches every 3 mm and an extra one at each corner |
| Sewn through to the lining or other side | No barrier inside the garment | Put a hand, towel or sleeve board inside while you sew |
Common questions
Can you sew on an iron-on patch?
Yes, and it is the best way to make one permanent. The adhesive on the back does no harm; many people iron it first to hold it in place and then stitch round the edge.
What thread should I use to sew on a patch?
Polyester all-purpose thread in the colour of the patch border. It is stronger than cotton and does not shrink. Clear nylon thread works if you cannot find a match, but it can feel scratchy.
Is it better to sew a patch by hand or by machine?
Both are strong enough. A machine is faster on flat areas; hand sewing is easier on sleeves, legs, caps and anywhere with a lining you do not want to catch.
How long does it take to sew on a patch?
About ten to fifteen minutes by hand for a 3 inch patch, and two or three minutes on a machine once it is pinned.
Can I sew a patch onto a stretchy or thin fabric?
Yes. Put a piece of light iron-on or sew-in interfacing inside behind the patch first, so the fabric does not pucker around the stiffer patch.
Do you sew the hook side or the loop side?
The loop side, onto the garment. The hook side belongs on the back of the patch, and on a made-to-order Velcro patch it is already fitted.
Can I glue or iron the loop panel on instead?
Not if the patch will be taken off and put back. Every pull puts the whole force into the panel, and adhesive gives way at a corner after a few washes. Stitch it through all four sides.
What thread is best for sewing on Velcro?
Strong polyester thread in the colour of the garment. It will not rot or shrink like cotton, and matching the garment rather than the panel hides the stitch line when no patch is fitted.
Can I sew Velcro onto a backpack or plate carrier?
Yes, and those are the places where it matters most. Use a heavy needle, go slowly through the webbing and add a second line of stitching or an X. If the bag has a lining you cannot get behind, see putting a patch on a backpack.
Is hand sewing strong enough?
Yes. A backstitch 2 mm from the edge all round is as strong as a machine line for normal use. Machine stitching is faster, not stronger.
Have these made
Need patches made?
We make embroidered, chenille, woven, leather and PVC patches to order — from $0.75 a patch, with a free digital proof before production and any backing you need.