Making
An embroidered patch is a stitched design on a piece of fabric, with the edge sealed so it does not fray. You can make one by hand with a needle and floss, or on a home embroidery machine. This guide covers both, step by step, and where ordering makes more sense.
Short answer. Hoop a firm fabric such as twill or felt with stabiliser, stitch the design, then finish the edge with a dense satin stitch and cut it out. Add an iron-on or sew-on back last. By hand it takes hours per patch. On a machine it takes minutes once the design is digitised.
What you need
- Base fabric — cotton twill, canvas, denim or wool-blend felt. It must be firm enough not to pucker
- Stabiliser — tear-away or cut-away backing that stops the fabric stretching while you stitch
- An embroidery hoop — to hold the fabric drum-tight
- Thread — six-strand embroidery floss by hand, or 40-weight embroidery thread on a machine
- A way to transfer the design — a water-soluble marker, a light box, or printable stick-on stabiliser
- Sharp small scissors — for cutting the patch out cleanly
- A backing — fusible web or iron-on adhesive for an iron-on patch, or nothing for a sew-on one
How to make an embroidered patch by hand
- Draw the design. Keep it simple and bold. Small text and thin lines are the hardest thing to stitch by hand.
- Transfer it to the fabric. Trace it with a water-soluble pen, or print it on stick-on stabiliser and press that onto the fabric.
- Hoop the fabric with stabiliser behind it. Leave at least an inch of fabric around the design for the border.
- Fill the large areas. Long-and-short stitch or satin stitch covers areas evenly. Work in one direction so the light catches it the same way.
- Add details and outlines. Back stitch or split stitch for lines and lettering.
- Stitch the border. Run a line of small running stitches around the shape, then cover it with a dense satin stitch. This is the edge that stops fraying.
- Cut it out. Trim close to the satin border without cutting the stitches. Remove the stabiliser.
- Seal and back it. Dab fray stopper on the cut edge. Add fusible web to the back if you want it iron-on.
A palm-sized patch done by hand usually takes several hours. It is a good project for one patch. It is not a practical way to make a set.
How to make an embroidered patch on a machine
- Digitise the design. The artwork has to become a stitch file, such as DST or PES, that tells the machine where every stitch goes. This is done in embroidery software and is the most skilled step.
- Hoop twill with stabiliser. Cut-away stabiliser gives the firmest patch.
- Stitch the design. The machine runs each colour in turn. Change thread when it stops.
- Stitch the border. Most patch files end with a satin border around the outside edge.
- Cut it out. Trim close to the border, or use a hot knife on polyester twill so the edge melts and seals.
- Add a backing. Press on an adhesive sheet for iron-on, or leave it plain for sew-on.
Home machines can only stitch a satin edge. Factory patches often use a merrowed edge instead, which is wrapped by a separate overlock machine. Our guide to patch borders explains the difference.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric puckers around the design | Not enough stabiliser, or the hoop is loose | Use cut-away stabiliser and re-hoop drum-tight |
| Edge frays after washing | Satin border too thin, or cut too close | Widen the border and seal with fray stopper |
| Text is unreadable | Letters too small for thread | Keep embroidered text about 5 mm tall or more |
| Patch curls | Dense stitching on thin fabric | Use twill or felt and a heavier stabiliser |
| Iron-on patch peels | Adhesive not fully melted, or the wrong fabric | Press longer with firm pressure, or sew it on |
For the full guide to backing a home-made patch with fusible web, see how to make an iron-on patch.
When to have them made instead
Making one patch is a craft. Making fifty matching patches is production. At volume, digitising is done once, every patch is stitched from the same file and the edges are merrowed or heat-cut by machine. That is why a 3 inch embroidered patch costs $3.95 each at 50 pieces and $1.05 at 1,000 from us, with digitising and a free proof included.
If you need a set for a team, a brand or an event, see custom embroidered patches or the full price list.
Common questions
What fabric is best for embroidered patches?
Cotton or polyester twill is the standard. Felt is easier by hand because it does not fray. Avoid stretchy fabrics.
Can I make a patch without an embroidery machine?
Yes. Everything a machine does can be done by hand with floss and a needle. It just takes far longer.
What stitch do you use for the edge of a patch?
A dense satin stitch, worked over a line of running stitch. It covers the raw edge and stops it fraying.
Do I need to digitise a design to embroider it?
Only on a machine. By hand you work straight from a drawing on the fabric.
How do I make an embroidered patch iron-on?
Fuse an iron-on adhesive sheet to the back, trim it to the shape, then press the patch onto the garment. Some fabrics such as nylon will not take it. See iron-on patches and fabric.
Need patches made?
We make embroidered, chenille, woven, leather, PVC and sublimated patches to order, from 50 pieces, with a free digital proof before anything runs.